Why Surf?

The waves, that is why I surf. There is something supernatural about surfing. Maybe its because you are in the water, a part of it, the rythm of the waves starts to become a part of you. When I'm alone on my board, I am closer to my thoughts; closer to knowing myself, closer to life, closer to death. Away from everything, drifting, you find yourself, you ride the wave, and then quickly head back out to find that place (in your thoughts) once more.