Journal Entry, 4/6

Journal Entry,
April 6th.



Spent the last few hours surfing some incredible wind and waves!
23mph steady from the Southeast.  
As the sunset came, the entire surface of the ocean become a mess of vibrant color and magnificent distorted reflections.   The board under my feet, I felt as though I was painting long, sweeping calligraphy through a wet and morphing canvas..
  As I surfed, I sang as loud as I could.. to the wind, to god, to myself..   the words spilled out from a shrouded and wonderful place.  
Once I made it back to shore,   I pulled on my red fleece jacket, and leaned against the catamarans to watch the final colors of twilight fade away.     My shoulders ache, my hair is a tangled mess falling in my eyes..   I am warm, and I feel engulfed by a sublime calmness.
  I feel very much awake.   I feel true.     

there is a path..  it is mine, and I am on it.

 

Andrew Tipton