I walked down to Diamondhead this morning and picked up a new surfboard. Its a 8' smooth and ready to be ridden. I took in to the surf beside Diamondhead beach, it is a remote section of waves hidden behind a few hundred yards of sharp coral - I waxed up and paddled out into the water. my knuckles scraped against the brittle edges as I propelled myself forward. 3 other surfers, all sitting up on their boards, waiting for the next set - no words, just nods and smiles.
I sat up and straddled my board, watching the sunlight glistening across the palm trees and through the branches. The bottom half of a rainbow climbing through the mountains - losing itself in dark clouds.
One of the best parts of surfing is not surfing; its the wait on the edge of the waves.
The wave was good. Solid.
Again.
Again.
Every time though I felt the coral tear at my feet and my ankles as I bailed off - the thought of sharks lingered in my head for a few moments.
Sharks hate surfers, they eat them out of spite.
The last wave was big, solid and strong - I took it all the way past the reef's edge - then slipped of the front of the board and landed head first on the coral.
I have a nice scratch on my forehead and one on my arm.
The surfboard is fine.
Can't wait to go out tomorrow!
(Andrew Tipton)
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